# by-cosmetics | Natural & Organic Skincare from Bali #### [all articles](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/blog)Our last article talked about the human skin and what functions it performs in our body. Today we discuss the structure of this unique body organ in further detail. Why bother to get into these unchartered waters of human anatomy and grind away at cosmetic studies? Well, the response is obvious, dear friends. Knowledge is the power, and knowledge of the nature of our own body is the key to understanding the mechanisms that control the regeneration and recovery processes of natural resources. Everyone should study the principles of work performance in the skin, at least in general terms. It is the way we can save the treasure given to us by nature. Alas, customers can easily fall for the tricks of cosmetics manufacturers and beauty centers. It is increasingly evident that using the cult of "instant beauty", they often pursue the only goal, their profits. Let's learn together and evolve from the level of the ordinary consumer to the story of a prudent and informed buyer, avoiding glorified and merchandized yet another "magic lotion made of pink unicorn mane". A load of responsibility for our health rests on our shoulders. Our skin is the outpost that protects us from the misery of the environment. How is it arranged? Human skin is a very complex organ. It consists of three layers: epidermis, dermis, and subcutaneous fat. It has one more face layer, which is not related to the skin formally, but it plays a vital role in cosmetics and interpersonal communication. This layer is called facial muscles. All these layers constitute the various kinds of tissues: epithelium, connective and adipose tissues. Each layer contains a large number of cells. In the dermis, there are differentiated (i.e., having specialization and working in the body on its own "service instructions"), and the so-called stem cells, undifferentiated and capable of developing into different cell types under certain circumstances. Another unique feature of the skin is that it employs living cells, intercellular substance (a kind of "gel" that fills the space between the cells), and dead cells (horny scales) in a friendly alliance. Therefore, in cosmetology, you can achieve a positive effect by playing on two fronts at once: by acting on the "tactical and technical characteristics" of inanimate matter, that is, on the upper stratum corneum and intercellular substance, or by working with living cells of the deep layers and achieving slow but stable positive rearrangements in their work. Each cosmetic product or therapeutic method has its own "target effects" in the skin structure, so our goal is to understand the mechanisms of their work, whether it is homemade scrub or serious and expensive course of therapeutic procedures. Let's arm ourselves with an imaginary microscope and examine each layer of the skin in more detail. ###### Epidermis The epidermis is mainly composed of a single cell type called keratinocytes. The bottom of the epidermis is called the basal membrane, and on the surface, there is the horn layer. This uppermost layer of the skin constantly regenerates because it was the first to assume the aggressive beats of the environment. Keratinocytes, being born in the basement membrane, gradually move up and take the place of overage cells. That happens so smoothly and orderly that within the epidermis, it's able to distinguish the individual layers of keratinocytes in various stages of development or maturation. In their movement from the basal membrane to the surface, living cells gradually die and lose their nuclei. After reaching the top layer, these dead cells - now called by a different name, corneocytes - from the stratum corneum or horny layer. That is the same microscopically thin film that forms the blister in mild burns or abrasions. The cells of the horny layer under a microscope look like a mosaic of tightly interlinked hexagonal plates. The lipid barrier of the skin holds the individual parts of this mosaic together and ensures the integrity and strength of the stratum corneum. The corneocytes, these translucent flakes perform the same function as the bird's feathers or lizard scales: they protect our internal environment. > Thousands of dead flakes get lost from the skin surface every minute and get into the surrounding atmosphere. Those tiny airborne specks of dust that we can see in the beam of bright light are 90% skin particles. The basement membrane, which connects the epidermis and dermis, is a thin plate. It contains: \- germ cells; \- stem (undifferentiated) cells; \- Largenhans cells - "security", preventing the penetration of harmful substances and organisms into the dermis; \- Merkel receptor cells - "hormone factories", responsible, in particular, for the production of endorphins. It also serves as an additional filter, limiting the penetration of foreign substances into the dermis. The basement membrane is easy enough to damage; for example, during deep peeling procedures, some complications such as scarring can occur. Fortunately, nature has provided additional safety measures: this membrane is heterogeneous in its structure and has depressions and protrusions. Therefore, with superficial skin injuries, it is damaged only in certain areas with the possibility of further recovery. ###### Dermis This layer is responsible for the elasticity and strength of the skin. Can compare dermis in its structure with elastic mattress, which rests on the epidermis. It is laced with longitudinal and transverse "springs" - collagen and elastin fibers. The space between them is filled with a unique gel-like substance, composed essentially of hyaluronic acid. The critical property of hyaluronic acid is the ability to bind water. The structure of its molecules resembles a fishing net with many meshes, which capture the water molecules and turn them into a viscous gel. Each "net" can hold between 200 and 500 water molecules. This entire "catch" of the water is used by the body to synthesize new cells and output the decay products and toxins. Skin regeneration is a continuous process, and, like in any industry, water plays a key role. ![by-cosmetics](https://by-cosmetics.com/images/blog/skin/skin_en-compressor.jpg) The skin elasticity and its resistance to the physical impacts directly depend on how much collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid. The role of "mid-level managers", responsible for synthesizing these elements, is performed by connective tissue cells called fibroblasts. These cells monitor the production of new components of the dermis and the well-time destruction and disposal of worn-out parts. Research figures that with age, the activity of fibroblasts decreases, and the synthesis of new materials for dermis results slower than its destruction. Therefore, the skin does not have enough time to get recovered and starts to age. ![by-cosmetics](https://by-cosmetics.com/images/blog/skin/fibroblast_en-compressor.jpg) Blood and lymphatic capillaries and vessels play the role of the transportation system, which supplies oxygen and all the necessary components to the dermis, and removes the waste products of metabolism. The epidermis doesn't have its blood-circulatory system, so the condition of the top layer depends on "delivery" from the dermis. To maintain the intensity of the blood flow in the dermis and, thereby, preserve the beauty of the skin, you need to perform treatments that strengthen the walls of blood vessels and improve blood circulation. These health precautions include physical conditioning exercises, facial gymnastics, contrast shower, massage, and use of natural cosmetics that contain rosemary, [geranium](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/shop/pure-oils/geranium-detail), neroli, chamomile, [lemongrass](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/shop/pure-oils/lemongrass-detail), calendula, etc. Therefore, although the dermal layer and not visible from the outside, keeping it in good shape is the key to radiant skin and a healthy complexion. ###### Subcutaneous fat This soft lining, located directly beneath the dermal layer, is composed entirely of fat (adipocytes) and designed for thermal insulation of the body and damping mechanical injuries. It accumulates fat-soluble vitamins of groups A, D, E, and estrogen hormones. Adipose tissue has an extensive network of blood vessels designed to instant control fat levels in the blood. Pathologies caused by unhealthy lifestyle and nutrition, such as excess fat in cells, thickening of the septa between fat lobules, swelling, inflammation, and others, may negatively affect the skin's beauty and overall health. ###### Facial muscles There are 57 facial muscles. One end of each muscle is fixed to the cranial bones, and the other end – to the face skin or the surrounding muscles. When the muscle is contracted, it pulls the skin, causing facial expression changes: puckering of the eyebrows, forehead wrinkling, lips stretch into a smile, etc. Folds in areas of active facial expressions result from tension and displacement of the skin during muscle contraction. ![by-cosmetics](https://by-cosmetics.com/images/blog/skin/face_muscles-compressor.jpg) There are 57 facial muscles. One end of each muscle is fixed to the cranial bones, and the other end – to the face skin or the surrounding muscles. When the muscle is contracted, it pulls the skin, causing facial expression changes: puckering of the eyebrows, forehead wrinkling, lips stretch into a smile, etc. The only exceptions are the mastication muscles, which, like the body muscles, are attached to both ends of the bones. A human face (and the body) visually looks old if the muscular system loses its tone and begins to "sag". Skin folds in the active zones are the result of the tension of the skin during muscle contraction. While an organism is young, such dislocations do not form skin defects, as its renewability is much higher than the speed of decomposing its structural proteins (collagen and elastin). ![by-cosmetics](https://by-cosmetics.com/images/muscles.png) While the body is young, such displacements do not lead to the formation of skin defects since its ability to regenerate is much higher than the rate of destruction of its structural proteins (collagen and elastin). Over time, the synthesis of collagen and elastin becomes less intense, and their destruction becomes more and more significant. In turn, the face and neck muscles are deformed, being in constant hypertonicity. As a result, wrinkles appear in these areas. However, the muscles of both the face and the body are amenable to training, becoming more elastic and robust. Regular [facial gymnastics](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/about-us/facial-gymnastics "by-cosmetics") tightens the muscles, allowing for positive visual changes without surgery or injections. Simple but highly effective exercises for the facial muscles combined with natural cosmetics give a long-lasting and lasting result without surgeons' toxic injections and scalpels. > The **by-cosmetics** brand offers natural organic skincare for skin regeneration: hydrolates, oils, masks for epidermis and dermis. Regular [facial gymnastics](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/about-us/facial-gymnastics) plus pure formulas without chemicals — balance and rejuvenation from Bali. ![by-cosmetics](https://by-cosmetics.com/images/favicon-ring.svg) #### [all articles](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/blog)M esotherapy (from Greek mesos – "middle") is a non-surgical cosmetic medicine treatment. It employs multiple small dose injections of pharmaceutical medications, hyaluronic acid, vitamins, and other ingredients, into the dermis and hypodermis. In these skin layers, the blood vessels, immune defense cells, and the cells responsible for collagen and elastin synthesis are located. In recent years, mesotherapy is one of the most popular treatments in cosmetic clinics. Advertising is full of reports about its undoubted benefits and absolute harmlessness. In beauty salons, would tell you that this method is not new, that mesotherapy has already been used successfully since the middle of the 20th century. Does it seem that there is a miracle treatment meant to prolong healthy and youthful skin? We can examine further the feasibility of mesotherapy and all of its’ promoted advantages in terms of physiology. We’ll start with the fact that at this time, no clinical studies are proving the effectiveness of this correction method for age-related changes (we are talking about scientific research, which meets the requirements of evidence-based medicine). Cosmetologists who practice this technique say that applying active substances inside the dermis is more effective than using them topically. In addition, those cosmetologists maintain the position that the multiple micro-injuries of the skin surface caused by the injections will enhance blood circulation in the subcutaneous layer. The skin cells receive a powerful boost to rejuvenation, and cellular regeneration is accelerated. While these multiple punctures may increase blood circulation, there are other risks and complications that you aren’t told about it. Dangerous bacteria can penetrate the human body through the damaged skin, causing an allergic reaction with subsequent inflammation, followed by scar tissue formation or hyper- and hypopigmentation. Repetitive damage to the epidermis, blood vessels, and nerve endings may cause the formation of antibodies and skin hypersensitivity. Necrosis and skin abscesses, lupus erythematosus, urticaria, psoriasis, and mycobacterial infections could be on the list of frequent complications. Additionally, pharmaceutical companies are involved in the "beauty race", constantly replenishing the list of allegedly "allowed and safe" ingredients for the injections. Alas, how these chemical compounds will affect your skin is impossible to predict. > We should not forget that the beauty industry is a business. For the owners of clinics and practicing beauticians, the mesotherapy procedure is very beneficial in financial terms. While it requires a minimum amount of medications and the most straightforward equipment, the course of treatment is quite extensive, requiring constant (or frequent ) repetition. What happens to our skin tissues after the administration of these therapeutic "magic mixtures"? Perhaps, the most popular substance for the injections is hyaluronic acid. Recall that the main feature of hyaluronic acid, produced by your skin, is the ability to bind and retain water. However, being injected under the skin unnaturally, the hyaluronic acid has moisture in the middle layers of the dermis. It increases pressure on the capillary network, reduces the volume of intravascular fluid, breaks the capillaries, and slows the metabolic processes. Due to excessive pressure on the blood vessels, edema develops inevitably. The edema can decrease after the body's enzymes break down and remove all the foreign molecules from the body. Edema development, caused by the extraneous hyaluronic acid debris, will progress in a vicious cycle. Thus, due to defense reactions in the skin, the blood and oxygen circulation disorders in the connective tissue disorders arise gradually, and the metabolism and cell regeneration slow down. Moreover, analysis of electron-microscope investigations shows a decrease in the diameter of collagen fibers after mesotherapy treatments. As we know, the quantity and quality of collagen fibers in the skin directly affect its elasticity and resistance to mechanical actions. From the above, we can conclude that tissue hydration can achieve temporary visual improvement of skin conditions. Still, a side effect of such intervention is always an impetus to rapid aging. ![blog by-cosmetics](https://by-cosmetics.com/images/blog/skin/syring-compressor.jpg) Another so-called advantage of mesotherapy is the subcutaneous injection of vitamins, minerals, and amino acids. On a practical level, all of the ingredients contained in the injections are hydrophilic or water-soluble. And you know what? The subcutaneous fat is unable to deposit such substances! In its "storage", the subcutaneous fat can hold only fat-soluble components, representing a specific biological form. Vitamins and minerals should come into our body orally, and our body is responsible for their transformation into biochemically active forms in the liver. Therefore, the skin doesn't need to be traumatized with unproductive injections. **Platelet-Rich Plasma Therapy**, or PRP-therapy, is the prevalent (and, by the way, costly) mesotherapy method. In this method, the blood plasma that has been enriched with platelets is inserted under the skin. This preparation is made of the patient's venous blood passed through a particular spin machine. In this machine, called sedimentation, the platelet-rich plasma gets separated from the other blood cells. Figuratively speaking, in the body, platelets serve as an "ambulance" and "intensive care". They gather in the damaged or wounded area; they form a blood clot and trigger a cascade of the wound-healing biochemical reactions. Then, the platelets secrete the growth factors, which stimulate cell movement and updating of the structures. In addition, these factors activate the process of formation of new blood vessels. This process, described above, occurs in our body right after the "beauty injection": it signals to our body that the skin is out of order, and it must start rebuilding urgently. Of course, if the cosmetologist damages the patient’s skin repeatedly, the natural healing effect of platelets can improve the color and turgor of the aging skin. Beauticians put their hopes upon these effects regarding the usage of PRP therapy in anti-aging cosmetology. On the other hand, the same results can be achieved by chemical peeling, applied in low concentrations. So why on earth should one stand the traumatic procedures of blood sampling and subcutaneous injections if there are more natural ways of rejuvenation? PRP therapy requires the constant repetitions of the supporting treatment courses. It can increase the risk of stress in the immunity system and then deplete the immune reserve. The energy for the recovery process is drawn from the “emergency stocks” of our bodies. Mother Nature laid these stocks for the entire stage of life. This method works only as temporary doping. Sooner or later, the body will stop responding to this intervention. Any injection technique has the risk of infectious complications. In addition, multiple and regular skin injury leads to tissue scarring. So far, it’s impossible to avoid complications: there is no surgery without risks, as there is no completely safe method of mesotherapy drug administration. So, let's weigh the "pros" and "cons". On the one hand, mesotherapy procedures can help to achieve a temporary improvement of the skin appearance. On the other hand, this improvement will cause apparent stimulation of aging and the long-term trophic changes of the skin. Moreover, this kind of treatment still does not have the proven efficiency. The price we pay in a rush towards the passing beauty is too high. It is not worth risking your health and the vital resources of the body. There are dozens of healthy methods of maintaining and restoring your skins' appearance, and your body will accept it with joy and gratitude. [Natural cosmetics](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php), massages and peelings, [facial exercises](https://by-cosmetics.com/about-us/facial-gymnastic), proper nutrition, fresh air, physical activity, healthy sleep, bright smile, and positive thinking do wonder. Love yourself and be beautiful! Used literature and other information sources: > Instead of mesotherapy, **by-cosmetics** offers 100% natural organic alternatives: hydrolates, oils, masks for skin regeneration. Regular [facial gymnastics](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/about-us/facial-gymnastics) without injections — safe rejuvenation from Bali. ![by-cosmetics](https://by-cosmetics.com/images/favicon-ring.svg) #### [all articles](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/blog) B otox: what is hidden behind this word, which became so deeply ingrained in the list of services of cosmetology centers? The term “Botox” was registered by the American company Allergan. It has become a catch-all term for all medical products and cosmetic procedures based on botulinum toxin, including analogs. The cosmetic procedure called Botox means intramuscular administration of botulinum toxin preparations to block the neuromuscular transmission and, consequently, the relaxation of these muscles. Botulinum toxin, an active ingredient of Botox, is a type A neurotoxin derived from Clostridium botulinum bacteria; that’s the most potent organic poison among organic toxins known to science and one of the most poisonous substances. In nature, these microorganisms live in anaerobic, i.e., without oxygen, conditions; for example, in canned food or in meat that has not undergone sufficient heat treatment. When ingested, they cause a severe and deadly infectious disease called botulism. > It’s characterized by damage to the nervous system, muscle spasms, and acute respiratory failure. To humanity, botulism has been known since ancient times: thus, in ancient Byzantium, Emperor Leo VI forbade the use of blood sausage because of life-threatening consequences. The first documented sickness case occurred in 1793 in the German city of Württemberg. At the beginning of the nineteenth century, scientist Justinus Kerner made the first clinical, epidemiological description of the symptoms of botulism and suggested that small doses of botulinum toxin can be helpful in the treatment of hyperkinesis. Since 1950, the ability of neurotoxin A to remove painful spasms has been used in neurology, pediatrics, and ophthalmology to treat diseases accompanied by muscle spasms, such as cerebral palsy, torticollis, muscle cramps, strabismus, blepharospasm, nervous tics, etc. Finally, the production of the drug called Botox acquired a commercial scale. Soon scientists paid attention to the consequences of botulinum toxin preparations with facial muscles and sweat glands. The fact is that the body's muscles are attached to the bones by both ends, while the facial muscles are connected to the skull bones by only one end, and the other end is attached to the skin. The contraction of the facial muscles leads to the movement of the skin; that's accompanied by skin wrinkling, therefore, with aging, mimic wrinkles are gradually formed, such as horizontal folds of the forehead, vertical creases as a result of the brow furrowing, "crow's feet" in the corners of the eyes, etc. As we already know, injections of botulinum toxin drugs block neuromuscular connections. Muscle fibers, which have been exposed to these injections, do not receive signals from the nerves and temporarily cease to contract. Therefore, wrinkles on the skin disappear, and the face looks smooth. Botox injections are widely used to relieve symptoms of hyperhidrosis or excessive sweating: a drug injected into the problem area blocks the transmission of nerve impulses, and the work of the sweat glands is suspended. In the absence of reaction to external stimuli, the amount of sweat secreted is significantly reduced. The industry of aesthetic medicine immediately reaped the benefits of these "side effects". Since then, every year, the number of adherents of Botox grows exponentially. Often, patients of cosmetology centers do not think about the consequences or the mechanism of action of these "miracle injections". What causes people to be agreeable to the injections of the most potent nerve-paralytic poison of their own will? Make an injection and get a smooth face without signs of wrinkles; such a scheme of "eternal youth" may seem almost flawless. However, if you approach the study of the issue from a medical point of view, there are many hidden hazards. The fact is that Botox paralyzes the muscle, destroying the innervation; that is, it interrupts the signals transmitted by the nerves to the tissues and muscles. The drug effect can last from six months to a year. All this time, the muscles do not move and do not work; hence, new neural connections do not form, and gradually the mass of muscle tissue decreases and loses its tone. Hypokinesis, which means a decrease in the volume of voluntary movements and a general decrease and change in metabolic processes, leads to the atrophy of paralyzed muscles. By the way, the same processes occur with natural aging. Where is no motion, there is no life; immobilized, limp facial muscles can no longer hold their shape. The oval of the face is sagging gradually, and so-called ptosis is formed. ![blog by-cosmetics botox](https://by-cosmetics.com/images/blog/botox/botox-compressor.jpg) Facial muscles, as we know, are directly connected to the skin, so they play a vital role in maintaining its matrix and structure. The skin above the paralyzed muscle does not grow younger. It becomes disaccustomed to activity and, due to disorders in metabolic processes, gets fewer nutrients. Nerve fibers and their endings transmit nerve impulses and participate in the regulation of metabolism. It is most clearly manifested in the protein synthesis of muscle fibers; the less the nerve segment is connected with the muscle fiber, the less it gets essential nutrients for its metabolism. Thus, in the muscle with Botox injections, the activity of several enzymes sharply decreases, and the processes of decay of structural proteins such as [collagen](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Collagen), reticulin, [elastin](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elastin), and [keratin](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Keratin) are significantly strengthened. As a result, the skin interacting – or, instead, not interacting with the immobilized muscle, begins to age much faster. In addition to undoubted harm to the body, many people, especially women, in pursuit of porcelain-smooth faces are used to forget about another effect of Botox's injections: the face becomes less expressive. It looks immovable (amimic) even when talking about the most exciting topics. Moreover, the sensitivity of the injected area is decreased because nerves do not work. Scientists have developed an interesting theory: for a person to process and understand the emotional information sent by the other person in a conversation, he must reproduce the same emotions on his face. For example, if we observe a smile on someone's face, our brain perceives that as a manifestation of joy or sympathy from our counterpart, and we unconsciously want to smile back. Therefore, we try to understand the face and emotions of the other person better. But after the injection of Botox, facial muscles are partially paralyzed. It disrupts the feedback of muscles to the brain and prevents the complete response to the events around us. In the conversation, mutual understanding plays a crucial role in ensuring proper social interaction: failure to understand the nuances of emotions or sudden changes in the mood of our talk partner can reduce the effectiveness of communication or even destroy it. Thus, the inability to express feelings due to paralyzed muscles becomes the reason for a failure to experience emotions. Let us remind once again that botulinum toxin is one of the most potent poisons in the history of humanity. Despite the assurances of cosmeticians that the method is safe, that administered doses of the drug are tiny and highly purified, in February 2008, the Food and Drug Administration of the United States (FDA) described the fatalities associated with the injections of Botox. The American Academy of Dermatologists also noted that by 2003 there were data on 28 deaths related to the medical use of injections of this drug. It is considered "normal" if 1 to 5 percent of patients have light facial asymmetry, a curvature of the mouth, overhanging of the eyelids, or lower eyebrows. Doctors promise that these "little troubles" usually pass off in two weeks. Let’s summarize. At the moment, cosmetic injections of Botox are elevated to the rank of magic rejuvenating treatment. The problem is that the popularization of this commercial method usually spreads to healthy people. With long-term use of botulinum toxin products, patients undergo irreversible changes in the structure of the facial oval and trophic disorders in muscles and metabolic processes in tissues. We strive for youth, but the lack of facial expression makes us unemotional, and emotionlessness makes us older. We strive for the beauty of the skin, but violent medical interventions lead to a disruption of the natural balance. Therefore, the best way of rejuvenation is a system of self-renewal and regeneration of the organism, rooted in our body by Mother Nature. Those who seek to study these processes get genuinely stunning results with a prolonged positive effect and complete absence of side effects. The main thing is to make the right choice. And this choice is incredibly far from injections. Used literature and other information sources: Ершов Ю.А. "Биохимия человека". ИД Юрайт, 2016 г. Ярилин А.А. "Кожа и иммунная система". Кукес В.Г., Блинков И.Л., Верткин А.Л. и др. “Клиническая фармакология”. Под общ. ред. Кукеса В.Г. 2-е изд., перераб. и доп. ГЭОТАР, 1999 г. Деев А.И., Шарова А.А., Брагина И.Ю. Под общей редакцией Эрнандес Е.И. Новая косметология "Аппаратная косметология и физиотерапия", 2014 г. Эрнандес. Е.И. "Старение кожи". ИД Косметика и медицина, 2012 г. Эрнандес. Е.И. “Ремоделирование кожи и заживление ран”. ИД Косметика и медицина, 2013 г. Эрнандес Е.И. “Кожа как объект косметологического воздействия”. ИД Косметика и медицина, 2013 г. Марголина А.А., Эрнандес Е.И. Новая косметология “Основы современной косметологии”, 2014 г. Парвиз Янфаза, Джозеф Б. Нэдол мл., Роберт Галла, Ришар Л. Фабиян, Уильям У. Монтгомери. “Хирургическая анатомия головы и шеи”, 2014 г. Эрнандес Е.И. “Стресс и его влияние на кожу” ИД Косметика и Медицина, 2013 г. Ткачук В.А. “Клиническая биохимия”. Марголина А.А., Эрнандес Е.И. Новая косметология “Косметические средства”. ИД Косметика и медицина, 2015 г. Instead of risky Botox injections, choose 100% natural organic **by-cosmetics** from Bali: rich formulas without toxins, synthetics, or preservatives for natural skin rejuvenation. Use hydrolates, oils, and masks for tone, hydration, and regeneration — safe alternative with long-lasting effects. ![by-cosmetics](https://by-cosmetics.com/images/favicon-ring.svg) #### [all articles](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/blog) Essential oils are organic, volatile liquids secreted in various plants, such as seeds, leaves, fruits, flowers, sap, and wood. Scientists still can not come to a single definition that would describe all the beautiful properties of these substances.nces. However, the effectiveness of essential oils in the treatment and prevention of many diseases and a beneficial effect on a person's hormonal balance and psychological and emotional state are proven scientific facts. About 3000 essential oil-bearing plants have been used to date, and each oil gets the name of the plant from which extracted it, e.g., [lavender oil](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/shop/pure-oils/lavender-detail), [patchouli oil](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/shop/pure-oils/patchouli-detail), [orange oil](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/shop/pure-oils/sweet-orange-detail), etc. Accordingly, the aroma of essential oil, which we breathe, is the "soul" of the parent plant, its essence, and quintessence. ![blog by-cosmetics essential oils](https://by-cosmetics.com/images/blog/eo/eo4-small-compressor.jpg) The plants use essential oils for self-healing, attracting pollinating insects, preventing contamination by pathogenic fungi and bacteria, as a mechanism to protect against eating by animals, and as "strategic stocks" when emergency regeneration is needed. Plants store essential oils in either external secretory structures found on the plant's surface or internal secretory systems. The percentage of oils in plant material is tiny, from 0.01% to 6% of its mass. This fact, among other things, determines the high price of essential oils. Consider: producing 200 grams of rose oil. You will need a ton of fresh rose petals! > As a matter of interest, the composition of essential oils obtained from plants of one biological species will differ slightly depending on the age of the plant, the area where it was grown, the climatic conditions, and even the time of day when the raw material was harvested. Essential oils, in the conventional sense of the word, are not oils. Any "regular" plant oil consists of glycerol trihydric alcohol esters and high-molecular fatty acids. Examples of such oils called primary or carrier oils are olive oil, sunflower, [flaxseed](https://by-cosmetics.com/shop/pure-oils/flaxseed-detail), [jojoba](https://by-cosmetics.com/shop/pure-oils/jojoba-detail), avocado, or grapeseed oil, and many others. However, the substances that we call essential oils are multicomponent mixtures of organic compounds, mainly terpenes and terpenoids, esters, organic acids, alcohols, and hydrocarbons. All organic substances are classified into three primary groups, namely proteins, fats, and carbohydrates. We refer to all carrier oils as fats, but the essential oils as carbohydrates. In addition, any essential oil quickly dissipates into the air, even at room temperature, leaving no oily traces; and carrier oils either do not fully dry or they leave a residue film on the surface. Humankind has been using essential oils from time immemorial. It is theorized that the alchemists of the East discovered the first healing "essence" of plants in their experiments with the distillation of various organic substances. Then brought this knowledge to Europe. There is documented evidence of the production, use, and export of essential oils in ancient India, Persia, Egypt, Greece, and Rome. The price of such a product was fabulously high, and each drop was worth its weight in gold. Not surprisingly, precious essential oils were considered the gift of the gods. Ancient people did not possess modern knowledge of biochemistry and medicine, but they certainly knew the benefits of essential oils. In cities where the production and trade of essential oils were located, the rate of morbidity and mortality from cholera and other infectious diseases was much lower than in different settlements. ![blog by-cosmetics essential oils](https://by-cosmetics.com/images/blog/eo/eo8-small-compressor.jpg) Indeed, all essential oils, without exception, have bactericidal, antiseptic, and anti-inflammatory effects, as well as a beneficial impact on the emotional sphere and mental health. In addition, oils are actively used in cosmetology and dermatology, helping to restore and maintain the beauty and health of skin and hair. Modern man has become accustomed to the treatment with antibiotics and other potent pharmaceutical preparations, which often relieve only the symptoms of the disease, but not its causes; also, hard drugs can suppress natural immunity. Thus, it is difficult for us to believe in such "universal" properties of herbal medications, which cure the disease and force the body to fight the potential threat by itself. It seems to be a magic wand. Understanding how these "magic wands" works require mentioning the key property of essential oils. We get the answer right after we open a bottle with any essential oil: the smell! What do we know about smells? How does our body perceive them, and what effect do they have? Of course, there is a set of "positive" and "negative" smells for each culture and individual But there are high chances that – at least for most of us – the aroma of the rose is pleasant, fresh pastry smells delicious, and we feel fresh and energized in the pine forest. It is the way how our brain reacts to smells. In the nasal mucous membrane, which is the "entrance gate" of our sense of smell, there are about 100 million nerve receptor cells. These cells react to the molecules in the air or food, called odorants, and perceive from them information about odors. In response to stimulation of the receptors, the brain receives nerve impulses. They are recorded by the brain almost instantly; only direct physical effects such as shock or burn can be perceived by the brain more quickly. After the brain "recognized" the smell, it assesses this particular odor and sends the body signals about danger, excitement, relaxation, and so on. Moreover, nerve cells release certain substances called neurotransmitters such as adrenaline, noradrenaline, or dopamine. The neurotransmitters directly affect the nervous system, emotional state, hormonal background, and immunity in the human body. The brain's olfactory center is the oldest department of the brain, formed even earlier than the visual and auditory centers. ![blog by-cosmetics essential oils](https://by-cosmetics.com/images/blog/eo/eo7-small-compressor.jpg) This center is closely related to the brain's limbic system through neurons, which controls all human emotions, creativity, memory, sexuality, and the vegetative functions of the body (blood circulation, digestion, breathing, hormone production). Thus, smells directly affect the psycho-emotional state and control the physiological processes in the body. Our brain accepts incoming signals about smells, translates them into emotions, and can support feelings, or conversely, depress human health. It is proven that such negative emotions as apathy, overexcitement, or anxious thoughts reduce the protective functions of the human body and make it vulnerable to infections. Positive emotions serve as a natural immune stimulant. In addition, the unique "multi-profile" composition of essential oils does not leave chances for various pathogens: For example, alcohols have an antiviral effect. Aldehydes are antibacterial and sedative remedies. Esters have antifungal and spasmolytic properties. Phenols can stimulate the immune system. How essential oils are obtained, how to choose a quality product, and whether it is possible to use inexpensive synthetic oils will discuss in the following article. Information sources: > The **by-cosmetics** brand offers 100% natural organic essential oils of the highest quality: [lavender](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/shop/pure-oils/lavender-detail), [patchouli](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/shop/pure-oils/patchouli-detail), [orange](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/shop/pure-oils/sweet-orange-detail), [clove](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/shop/pure-oils/clove-detail), [ylang-ylang](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/shop/pure-oils/ylang-ylang-detail), [lemongrass](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/shop/pure-oils/lemongrass-detail), [cinnamon](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/shop/pure-oils/cinnamon-detail), [ginger](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/shop/pure-oils/ginger-detail) and more \[[all oils catalog](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/shop/pure-oils)\]. Pure formulas without synthetics — maximum benefits for health, skin, and hair in organic cosmetics from Bali. ![by-cosmetics](https://by-cosmetics.com/images/favicon-ring.svg) #### [all articles](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/blog) People have been searching for ways to get the "soul of plants": essential oils from time beyond all memory. That is the unique elixir, which can replace almost all the contents of our first-aid kit. Natural antibiotics, antiviral, antifungal, and immunomodulating agents with no side effects and are not addictive are not myths. Today, we will try to tell you about traditional and modern technologies that allow us to use the full power of essential oils, the natural healers of the plant world. Steam distillation (Lat. distillatio – "dripping") is one of the oldest methods, which have been used at least since the 5th century AD. There are two main methods of distillation: direct, in which plant raw materials are dipped directly into the water, and hydrodistillation, where plants are laid on a grid through which hot steam passes. Hydro distillation is the most popular and cost-effective option, as it allows you to get a large amount of essential oil with the minor loss of valuable compounds in its composition. It is believed that only two methods allow deriving pure essential oil; these include steam distillation and cold pressing. Let's take a closer look at this process. Pre-cleaned and cut-up plants are placed into a large container called "still", usually made of stainless steel. Then hot steam, injected through the plant material, breaking down the cells, which contain essential oil, releasing the plant's aromatic molecules, and turning them into vapor. The mixture of fragrant and water smoke enters the condenser through the steam hose. It passes along a long spiral tube through a particular "refrigerator", and its temperature gradually decreases. It makes the cool vapor back into liquid form. ![blog by-cosmetics essential oils](https://by-cosmetics.com/images/blog/eo/eo13-compressor.jpg) Next step, this liquid substance gets into the so-called Florence or separating flask, which is a receptacle with two drain tubes. Water and oil do not mix. Suppose the specific gravity of the essential oil is less than the specific gravity of water. In that case, oil floats on top, and water drains off through a tube in the bottom of the separator. Otherwise, if the oil is heavier than water (e.g., clove essential oil), it is found at the bottom of the separating flask and water removed through the hole in the upper part of the flask. Essential oils derived by steam distillation: [sandalwood](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/shop/pure-oils/sandalwood-detail), [tea tree](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/shop/pure-oils/tea-tree-detail), [ginger](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/shop/pure-oils/ginder-detail), [lemongrass](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/shop/pure-oils/lemongrass-detail), cedar, [patchouli](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/shop/pure-oils/patchouli-detail), etc. Can treat not all aromatic plants with hot steam. The essential condition is the high oil content in the parent plant, its resistance to 100°C temperatures, and the small size of molecules; such oils are most easily evaporated. Some essential oils, such as chamomile or yarrow oil, can only be derived by distillation. However, for oils extracted from a particularly delicate and tender raw material, such as jasmine petals, orange, and rose flowers, other technologies are used: enfleurage, maceration, solvent extraction, dynamic adsorption, and extraction with carbon dioxide. Enfleurage is another traditional way of obtaining essential oils, which has survived from the remote past to our days. This process is quite long, time-consuming, and, as a consequence, expensive, so from the middle of the twentieth century, enfleurage is used quite rarely, mainly for elite varieties of essential oils. This method is well illustrated in the [novel by Patrick Süskind "Perfume"](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perfume_(novel))) (and in the eponymous movie). It is based on the natural absorption of volatile substances by nonvolatile solvents, such as animal or vegetable fats. The technology looks like this: glass or fabric base, mounted into a frame, is coated with a layer of fat, so-called sorbent. Then, the petals of flowers or whole inflorescences are manually laid on fat and left until the essential oils absorb the sorbent entirely. Withered petals are replaced with fresh ones, repeating the procedure until the fatty base is wholly saturated with oils. This semi-finished product is called floral pomade if animal fat was used as a sorbent. In the case of using vegetable fats, that would be fragrant oil. Then this substance is placed in alcohol until completely dissolved, and then the alcohol is evaporated or distilled off in a vacuum. The resulting compound with a high content of essential oils is called “absolute” and usually has a viscous consistency. However, the absolute of rose oil at room temperature is solid, and only when the bottle is warmed up in hand becomes fluid. It is essential to understand that final is not pure essential oil but its mixture. It is the solution, with other components of the plant, mainly with vegetable fats. ![blog by-cosmetics эфирные масла](https://by-cosmetics.com/images/blog/eo/eo11-compressor.jpg) A modern type of enfleurage is dynamic adsorption, where activated carbon serves as a sorbent. A stream of hot moist air is passed through the raw material placed on the mesh in a sealed chamber. Then the air, saturated with oil vapors, is absorbed by activated carbon; the coal is placed in ethyl ether, and after distilling the solvent off, there is pure essential oil. Maceration (Lat. “macerare”) differs from enfleurage in the fact that the raw material is preliminarily cut up and placed in a receptacle filled with a vegetable oil or animal fat, pre-heated to 50-70°C. The mixture is infused for a certain amount of time with a periodic replacement of the plant material; after that, it is filtered. For each ether-bearing plant, there is the most optimal way of obtaining oil. For citruses like grapefruit, [orange](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/shop/pure-oils/sweet-orange-detail), [lemon](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/shop/pure-oils/lemon-detail), mandarin, bergamot, and many others, the best method is cold-press extraction. The great virtue of cold pressing is that the temperature caused by the pressure at the moment of pressing does not exceed 40° C. Thus, there is no heating and subsequent destruction of nutrients and trace elements. Most of the essential oils are concentrated in the zest, in microscopic "tanks" right under the surface of the fruit. Do you remember the pleasant smell on your hands after you peel a grapefruit or a mandarin? This refreshing light aroma is given to the fruit by natural oil, the content of which in citrus can reach up to two percent of the weight of the fruit. The most straightforward technology practiced in ancient times is pressing by hand. Unique spiked drums were invented a little later, where fruits were rolled on the surface, puncturing the skin and collect the juice. Nowadays, of course, industrial extractors are in use, but the essence of the technique remains the same. Cut off an upper layer of zest, add a little water, and press; there will be a mixture of water, juice, and essential oil on the output. Set the mixture aside and wait until the oil rises to the surface, or separate it with a centrifuge. In our industrial age, many factories, which produce packaged citrus juice, use the remaining cake to make essential oil by pressing, distillation, or solvent extraction. The economic benefits are obvious, but it is better not to use oils for aromatherapy or cosmetics. Fruit is grown using many chemical fertilizers. The fruit rind is sprayed with unique compounds for long-term storage, and many hazardous chemicals can penetrate the essential oil. Therefore, you should choose the essential oils made by specialized companies, which do not save on cultivation, harvesting, and production processes. Many aromatic plants can not be distilled because of the low content of essential oil (e.g., rose, jasmine, narcissus) or the instability of the oil components to high temperatures. In this case, solvent extraction is a prevalent method, first tested in the 1930s. Just a few volatile organic solvents are suitable for this process; they have specific characteristics: high purification, low boiling point, and no odor. The solvent, reacting with essential oils, should not originate substances containing toxins or alter the product's smell. These requirements are met by petroleum ether, hexane, pentane, diethyl ether. In simplified form, the extraction process can be described as follows: a fine-cut vegetable material is placed into a particular device called the [Soxhlet extractor](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soxhlet_extractor). In the bottom flask, the solvent is heated until it starts evaporating; the vapor is rising upward and entering the cooling chamber where it condenses; the solvent drips through the plants and enters the lowest flask again. After that, the cycle is repeated until the solvent is wholly saturated with essential oil. Then, the volatile solvent is removed by an inert gas stream under reduced pressure. At the end of this stage, a solid or semi-solid waxy compound is formed. It contains 5 to 20% of essential oil and consists of volatile aromatic and nonvolatile components (waxes, resins, paraffin, esters of higher fatty acids). But wait, there is more. The next step is the extraction of essential oil from the waxy compound. Accomplish this, and the waxy compound is dissolved in ethyl alcohol and filtered from insoluble wax particles and unnecessary impurities. The solution is discolored with activated charcoal and evaporated in a vacuum. As a result, we get the already known absolute and resinoids (fragrant resin extracts used in perfumery to give the composition durability). However, some traces of the solvent can remain in oils derived in this way, so they are not recommended for internal use. > Essential oils derived by solvent extraction: rose, tuberose, jasmine, neroli, violet, lavender, orange blossom. Since the 1980s, carbon dioxide has been used to extract essential oils. This method, called CO2-extraction, allows deriving an extremely high-quality oil without foreign inclusion, exposure to high temperatures, or pressure. At a temperature of 33°C and pressure of 200 atmospheres, the carbon dioxide is in an aggregate state in between gas and liquid. It empowers it with dissolving properties, making it possible to extract essential oils almost instantaneously; and without further solvent removal. Such plants as [cloves](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/shop/pure-oils/clove-detail), hops, [lavender](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/shop/pure-oils/lavender-detail), chamomile, [ginger](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/shop/pure-oils/ginger-detail) are processed this way. Unfortunately, the disadvantage of this method is its high cost. Therefore, essential oils derived by СО2-extraction are used mainly in up-scale perfume, cosmetics, or medicines. > The **by-cosmetics** brand offers 100% natural organic essential oils of the highest quality: [lavender](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/shop/pure-oils/lavender-detail), [patchouli](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/shop/pure-oils/patchouli-detail), [orange](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/shop/pure-oils/sweet-orange-detail), [clove](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/shop/pure-oils/clove-detail), [ylang-ylang](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/shop/pure-oils/ylang-ylang-detail), [lemongrass](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/shop/pure-oils/lemongrass-detail), [cinnamon](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/shop/pure-oils/cinnamon-detail), [ginger](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/shop/pure-oils/ginger-detail) and more \[[all oils catalog](https://by-cosmetics.com/index.php/shop/pure-oils)\]. Pure formulas without synthetics — maximum benefits for health, skin, and hair in organic cosmetics from Bali. ![by-cosmetics](https://by-cosmetics.com/images/favicon-ring.svg) 1. [ Neem Article EN](https://by-cosmetics.com/en/blog/neem) 2. [ Clove EN](https://by-cosmetics.com/en/blog/clove) Page 2 of 2